The Costume Institute’s Spring 2016 Exhibition Focuses on the Hand and the Machine in fashion. Manus x Machina: Fashion in the Age of Technology. On view from May 5 through August 14, the exhibition explores how designers are reconciling the handmade and the machine-made in the creation of haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear.” Recently the distinction has become increasingly blurred as both disciplines have embraced the hand/machine dichotomy,” said Andrew Bolton, Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute.
Featured, over 170 examples of haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear, dating from the early 1900s to the present. The First Floor is for embroidery, featherwork, artificial flowers. The Ground Floor examines pleating, lacework, leatherwork. Toile, tailoring, dressmaking are on the ground floor gallery. On both floors, traditional hand techniques are shown alongside innovative technologies such as 3-D printing, computer modeling, bonding and laminating, laser cutting, ultrasonic welding. Big name designers are represented, and some new names. Here are just a few of the photos soon to appear big on my website, with more details of the stunning fashions. Top Row, Left to Right: Lace looks by Dutch born Iris van Herpen, a name to watch, dresses from her Spring 2015 and 2016 collections, machine sewn, laser cut leather and van Herpen’s dark orange epoxy by Materialise, hand-sanded, hand-sprayed, Autumn 2012 … Mary McFadden’s machine-sewn and “Marii” machine-pleated green polyester charmeuse, hand-applied gold metallic passementerie dress, 1986 … Issey Miyake,”Pleats Please” machine-sewn polyester weave, machine-garment pleated in paper, 1993, (re-created in 2016) … Bottom Row: 1920 Evening Dress, Callot Soeurs, hand and machine-sewn black silk chiffon with antique ivory lace inserts, gold passemenetrie … Paul Poiret’s 1919 haute couture coat, machine-sewn black wool rep with white fur collar, hand-appliquéd with white kidskin cutwork … Alexander McQueen ensembles, 2012-13, laser-cut white pony skin, black leather, machine sewn and hand finished with Mongolian wool … Thierry Mugler 1990-91 “Neon Dans La Nuit” suit, black silk velvet, machine sewn, hand-embroidered with fluorescent stripes … Andrew Bolton, my very favorite curator, even if he is wearing Thom Browne above the ankle pants with no socks and didn’t have any hair or faces on the mannequins. To see the album with 39 photos, just up on the website, click HEREComment
The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s next Costume Institute Exhibition will focus on Technology’s impact on Fashion. From May 5 to August 14, 2016. Sponsored by Apple, a perfect fit. “The Exhibition will explore the impact of new technology on fashion and how designers are reconciling the handmade and the machine-made in the creation of haute couture and avant-garde ready to wear.” There will be more than 100 examples dating from an 1880s Worth gown to a 2015 Chanel suit. The manus x machina: fashion in an age of technology is organized by Andrew Bolton, Curator of The Costume Institute, the first time in charge for my favorite curator. The Met Gala, which will take place on May 2, 2016, will include Co-Chairs Taylor Swift and Anna Wintour, Hononary Chairs will include Karl Lagerfeld, Nicholas Ghesquière, Miuccia Prada. The fabulous feather dress with bird heads here is by Iris van Herpen, Fall/Winter 2013-14. To see some of the past Costume Institute Exhibitions, click HERE
Photo: Jean-Baptiste Mondino
The Metropolitan Museum of Art has extended hours for the final weekend of its much-visited and very popular China: Through the Looking Glass Exhibition. The exhibition, which opened May 7, has so far drawn more than 730,000 visitors, surpassing the record-breaking Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 2011 exhibition, and is now The Costume institute’s highest attended exhibition ever. Curated by Andrew Bolton, this must-see exhibition will be open to midnight on Friday, September 4 and Saturday, September 5 (Appetizers and full bar service will be at the Museum’s Great Hall Balcony Bar until midnight) and it closes on Labor Day, Monday, September 7. Expect crowds. But it will be worth it …
Photos: © Helen Oppenheim shown above – blue and white porcelain inspirations. Left, smashed up plate dress by Alexander McQueen, right dress by Gue Pei. More to drool over or, if you miss the exhibition, click HERE