Antonio Lopez – 1980
Illustration: © Antonio Lopez
New album, just up. I love love love this Antonio Lopez illustration for a Nihon, Vogue, Japan cover, Spring/Summer 1980. Love the hair, the face, the illustration.
Antonio Lopez (1943 – 1987) was a major American fashion illustrator who was very into hair and art. There had been no one like him before, and there has been no one like him since.
I did my first Peluquerias Magazine column on him, in 1982, several pages, each illustration a separate page from the book, “Antonio’s Girls” (pub by Congreve, text by Christopher Hemphill) – the girls being Pat Cleveland, Grace Jones, Tina Chow, Jessica Lange, Jerry Hall and more.
My heart still goes –flutter when I look at his beautiful illustrations, They maybe retro now, but they look very modern and still inspire me.
For more of the girls, Antonio and the book, see Icons on www.helenoppenheim.com
Illustration: © Antonio Lopez
(There is a new book just published in 2012, Antonio Lopez: Fashion, Art, Sex and Disco by Roger Padiha and Mauricio Padiha, published by Rizzoli.)
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Gold Lamé Rags – 1981
Photo: Lorraine Sylvestre
From rags to riches in glam gold lamé rags, hand-made by Avram and the Vidal Sassoon NY staff in 1981.
They were pretty enough to wear out for a party. We also made rags in animal, camouflage and other prints. The idea to set hair was practical and pretty, a big success with the media at the time. For full story and finished looks, go to Vidal Sassoon The P-P-P-Puff.
Hair: Avram, Vidal Sassoon, NY 1981 …Makeup: Ted Nadel …Model: Kay Romero … Photo: Lorraine Sylvestre … Produced by Helen Oppenheim
1 HighHair 1980
Photo: Lorraine Sylvestre
HighHair -Mimi
Hair will be high on top for the 80s, predicted Vidal Sassoon USA, and it was.
Hair was not high on top during this era, so HighHair, a new direction for
Vidal Sassoon, and everyone, became the look to influence hairstyles in the
80s, and beyond. The publicity was enormous, and this campaign really put
Vidal Sassoon USA on the hair map. (Up to this time, all Vidal Sassoon trends
came from the UK.)
Months of experimentation went into perfecting the techniques to achieve
height and volume on top – with no teasing, a big no-no at Sassoon!
The innovative cuts and perms were often done on clients with their heads upside down!
To achieve different textures and effects, HighHair could either be
dried naturally with lamps or fingers, blown dry, finger-waved or wave clipped.
The soft waves or soft curls rise above it all for cloud-like, romantic, dreamy looks.
Hair: A. Vernon Keach, Vidal Sassoon, NY, 1980
Perm: Allie Galizia and Edward Moore
HairCare: Vidal Sassoon Treatment Products
Makeup: Ted Nadal
Clouds: Ansell Adams
Art: Avram
Model: Mimi Young
Photo: Lorraine Sylvestre
Concept/Produced by Helen Oppenheim
Anecdote: HighHair was a name I invented and one that many copied!
Anecdote: To inspire the Vidal Sassoon hairdressers to come up with high hair cuts, I made
collages of high hats and evening styles high on top, mostly from Italian Vogues,
and put them up on staff room walls. Vernon Keach was the first to come to me with an
idea for the haircuts, and I remember we did sketches on my office lightbox together.
I still have them, a bit the worse for wear but if anyone is interested let me know and I
will put them up on this album.
Note: there is different text under each photo.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © HELEN OPPENHEIM 2012
Comment5 HighHair 1980
Photo: Gérard Gentil
HighHair – Vivienne
This is Tom Principe’s asymmetric up version of romantic, dreamy HighHair.
There is no teasing. Two rats were placed inside the hair, which could be worn
as high or low as one likes, asymmetric or simply going up.
Hair: Tom Principe, Vidal Sassoon NY, 1980
Hair Products: Vidal Sassoon Blow Styling Lotion, Non-Aerosol Mist
Makeup: Ted Nadel
Clouds: Ansell Adams
Art: Avram
Collage: Jan Kosarin of Norman Kosarin, Inc.
Model: Vivienne
Photo: Gérard Gentil
Concept/Produced by Helen Oppenheim
Anecdote: We photographed this HighHair version later and the clouds
were added to the photo after the shoot.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © HELEN OPPENHEIM 2012
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16 HighHair 1980
Photo: Lorraine Sylvestre
HighHair 1980
Crimped Updo
Sassooning for Evening
For dreamy nights out, this cloud-like HighHair vision by Avram, Vidal Sassoon, NY
was pure romance.
There is no teasing A rat or soft, lightweight form is pinned inside the crimped hair
on the heavier side to give that flattering, pretty height.
Here’s how to do this look. Part hair ear to ear. Side part front hair.
Comb back hair down. Leaving out 1″ of hair all around hairline, wave rest for
cloud-like effect by reversing curling iron for each wave – (or use a crimping machine.)
Pin in form, p lace waved hair back and up, like a French Twist, secure with pins.
Then wave and pull back the 1″ of front hair to lay over the twists on both sides.
Tuck ends in with a tail comb. Sweep up hair at the back, hide ends under twists
with pins.
Hair: Avram, Vidal Sassoon, NY, 1980
HairCare: Vidal Sassoon Treatment Products
Hair Color: Edward Moore’s Opal-Lites
Makeup: Ted Nadel
Opalescent dress/background: Avram
Model: Danielle, Filor Agency
Photo: Lorraine Sylvestre
Concept/Produced by Helen Oppenheim
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © HELEN OPPENHEIM 2012
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17 HighHair 1980
Photo: Lorraine Sylvestre
HighHair 1980
Crimp Updo
Sassooning for Evening
For dreamy nights out, this cloud-like HighHair vision by Avram, Vidal Sassoon, NY
was pure romance.
There is no teasing A rat or soft, lightweight form is pinned inside the wave-crimped hair
on the heavier side to give that flattering, pretty height.
Hair: Avram, Vidal Sassoon, NY, 1980
HairCare: Vidal Sassoon Treatment Products
Hair Color: Edward Moore’s Opal-Lites
Makeup: Ted Nadel
Opalescent dress/background: Avram
Model: Danielle, Filor Agency
Photo: Lorraine Sylvestre
Concept/Produced by Helen Oppenheim
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © HELEN OPPENHEIM 2012
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18 HighHair 1980
Photo: Lorraine Sylvestre
HighHair 1980
Hair Half Up/Half Down
Sassooning for Evening
For romantic, dreamy nights out, Graham Wren of Vidal Sassoon, NY
presented HighHair, half up and half down.
There is no teasing. A rat or soft, lightweight wire form is molded into a
triangular shape 3″ at the highest point, and pinned inside the hair to give
that height. Rats can be bought from five and dime stores, department or
beauty supply stores, or they can be made.
Here’s how to do your own version:
Part hair ear to ear. Side part front hair. Comb back hair down,
pageboy ends. Leaving out 1″ of hair all around the hairline,
wave rest for a cloud-like effect by reversing curling iron for each wave.
(Today, this could also be done with a crimping machine.)
Pin in form. place waved hair back and up, like a French Twist,
secure with pins. Now, wave and pull back the 1″ of front hair to
lay over the twists on both sides. Tuck ends in with a tail comb.
Avram, an Art Director at Vidal Sassoon, created the dress and the background
for this photo using Opalescent cellophane.
Hair: Graham Wren, Vidal Sassoon, NY, 1980
Hair Color: Edward Moore’s Opal-Lites
HairCare: Vidal Sassoon Treatment Products
Makeup: Ted Nadel
Dress/Background: Avram, Vidal Sassoon Art Director
Model: Danielle, Filor Agency
Photo: Lorraine Sylvestre
Concept/Produced by Helen Oppenheim
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © HELEN OPPENHEIM 2012
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19 HighHair 1980
Photo: Lorriaine Sylvestre
HighHair 1980 – Brenda
Grecian Bandeau
Sassooning for Evening
The perfect hair accessory for black or any HighHair is a Grecian Bandeau
wrapped around the head at the hairline.
This Grecian Bandeau is made of opalescent cellophane sprayed on plastic.
The 2 ends stand free form from the head, like a scarf in motion. (Avram
who made the bandeau (and the flowers) gave detailed
instructions how to make the bandeau and if anyone is interested, I can post them.)
Hair: Damien Miano, Vidal Sassoon, NY, 1980
Makeup: Ted Nadel
Opalescent Jewelry/Flowers: Avram
Model: Brenda Bailey
Photo: Lorraine Sylvestre
Concept/Produced by Helen Oppenheim
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © HELEN OPPENHEIM 2012
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